I have been in Egypt for over a month now, living in Cairo, as a student.
Since arriving, I have traveled around the country, including Sinai,
Alexandria, and will be in Luxor this weekend. With people arriving soon
for Wikimania, I'd like to take the opportunity to share advice and
experiences as a female.
Language -
English is widely spoken in Egypt, and you will get by just fine if you
don't know any words in Arabic. Though it's good to know a few basics in
Arabic: "shukran" - thank you; "aywa" - yes; "la" - no; "la shukran" - no
thanks; "kwayis" - okay, good; "low samaht" - please, excuse me; "asif" -
sorry (said by a male)/"asifa" (said by female); "hina kwayis" - here is
good (useful in a taxi for saying where to stop); "mish fahim" - I don't
understand; "betikkallim ingleezee" - do you speak English?
Arriving-
I found it unusual when arriving in Cairo, when we had to walk down stairs
(out of a jumbo-size Boeing 767) and onto the tarmac. We road a shuttle bus
from there to the airport terminal. Go ahead and exchange some money in the
airport - best to do before going through customs. Getting through customs
and immigration was quick and easy for me, though I obtained my visa in
advance.
Safety -
* I feel extremely safe here -- safer than I do back in the U.S. Crime is
not much of a problem at all. Also, there is a strong police presence
everywhere. In Sinai and other places, there are checkpoints on the
highways. Most of the time, our tour groups have been completely on our
own, but we had police accompany us a few times.
* There is some harassment on the streets, but it's mainly words. Knowing a
few things in Arabic helps (e.g. "la shukran"). It helps to walk in groups,
but I have walked around my neighborhood and other places on my own without
problems.
* For the most part, Egyptians are very welcoming, especially with tourism
so important to the economy here. I even have some friends here who are
Jewish, who are getting along fine here.
Getting around -
* The biggest difference between the U.S. and Egypt (and elsewhere in the
Middle East) is that traffic lights are pretty much lacking here. In a few
spots, there are traffic lights and/or police controlling traffic. To cross
the street, it's like playing the video game "Frogger", hurrying across the
street when there is a small break in traffic. Also, when riding in a taxi,
the taxi driver may go quite fast and it takes getting use to the manner
that they drive.
What to wear -
* I brought lightweight long/half-sleeve blouses, pants (linen or other
lightweight material), and long skirts. At the last minute, I tossed a
t-shirt in my luggage before I left the US. I'm so very glad that I brought
a t-shirt, and really wish I brought more short sleeve tops. In the area of
Cairo where I live (Zamalek), as well as around the university and many
other areas, it is acceptable to wear short sleeves. Same goes for
Alexandria (Bibliotheca and other areas), which is located along the
waterfront.
* If you are going to see the pyramids in Giza or other such sites, anything
goes for clothing. It's not a problem to for women to wear a tank top/or
t-shirt and shorts. Such attire was also absolute acceptable when I was in
Sharm el-Sheikh (in Sinai) and in similar locations.
* For all places, sandals are completely acceptable for women. You will
even see women covered in hijabs who are wearing sandals.
Shopping -
* In Khan al-Khalili (Cairo) and other markets, the vendors are aggressive
in wanting you to come into their shop and buy. As well, the crowds at the
markets can be overwhelming.
* Bargaining - The prices that vendors tell you are way overpriced and you
need to bargain. For example, they may want 50 LE (khamseen) for a scarf,
but you can get it for 10 LE (ashrun) or not more than 20 LE (ashreen). To
get out of bargaining and move along, you can say "hagee tania" which means
"I'll come back another time". Pretty much all the vendors will know some
English, but a little bit of Arabic can help.
* Khan al-Khalili is located in Islamic Cairo section of the city, which is
more conservative. It's good advice to dress more conservatively when going
shopping. To visit Al-Azhar Mosque, women should also wear a scarf.
Despite having to put up with all this, it is definitely well worth it to
visit Khan al-Khalili or other such places for shopping and souvenirs.
Taking a taxi -
* Prices - Taxi is a cheap and easy way to get around. It's one flat price,
no matter how many people are riding in the taxi. There are no meters.
You set the price, and it should be fair for the driver. If you don't know
what the fare should be for a particular destination, then you should ask
someone (hotel concierge, staff at the dorms, at Bibliotheca, etc.) what's a
reasonable price. 5 LE is a fair price for a ride from Bibliotheca to the
downtown area in Alexandria, since it's not far. I don't remember for sure
exactly how far the dorms are, but I think 5-6 LE is reasonable, since I
don't think the dorms are far. I paid 10-12 LE to get from BA to the other
end of the corniche in Alexandria.
* Getting a taxi - If you are going really far (e.g. downtown Cairo to the
Giza pyramids), then you should agree on a price before getting in a taxi.
For most places (medium and shorter distances), do not discuss price before
getting in. Just say your destination and the driver should agree to take
you. A few times, before or once getting in, the driver has asked me about
price. If that happens, you can say your price. If they don't agree, then
find a different taxi. Really, price should not come up.
* Paying the driver - When you arrive, everyone MUST GET OUT before paying
the driver. Once everyone is out, then the person with the money should
give the driver the money through the window. Then everyone needs to walk
away. Most of the time, the driver doesn't argue with me/us, but sometimes
they will make a fuss and demand more. The thing to do is keep walking
away. You gave them a fair, reasonable amount. As a tourist, maybe you can
give the taxi driver a tiny bit more to avoid an argument.
* You do not need to tip the driver. Just give them the fare.
Eating -
I think most meals are provided at Wikimania, but when you are on your
own...
* Koshari (dish of macaroni, rice, lentils, and sauce) or tamiyya (falafel)
make a good cheap meal. A falafel sandwich can be had for 1-2 LE each, and
koshari meal w/drink for 7-10 LE. Fast food places (e.g. McDonalds,
Hardees, KFC, Pizza Hut) are available most everywhere, though these are not
cheap meals by Egyptian standards. A meal at McDonalds will cost ~30 LE
($5-6 USD) or more. A meal at a good sit-down place (American style cafes,
and other types of places) will cost a bit more, but I think the prices are
comparable or slightly cheaper than in the US.
* I been fine eating the food here, though felt slightly ill after eating
salad in my university cafeteria. It might have been the tomatoes that were
not great. I have avoided salad at other places, though did get salad at
McDonalds which was fine. Some caution about eating raw fruits and
vegetables is a good idea. Cheap tamiyya and koshari have all been fine.
* Alcohol is not difficult to find in Egypt. Stella and Sakara are brands
of beer that are available here. There are plenty of bars and clubs around,
as well a hotel bar is a definite place to find alcohol.
* Restaurants will include a service charge directly on your bill, but you
should also leave a tip.
Bathrooms -
* Western-style toilets are available pretty much most places, though some
places (e.g. Islamic Cairo), you might find a squat-style toilet. When I
arrived at the airport in Cairo, I had some difficulty figuring out how to
flush the toilet. There is a knob on the toilet lid that you pull out and
then push back in when finished with flushing. Some toilets just have a
button to push.
* It's a good idea to carry some toilet paper or tissue with you. Toilet
paper is usually available most places I have been, but not always. In some
places, there is a staff person manning the bathrooms, who will give you
toilet paper for bashish (tip). In some places (e.g. rest houses/stops on
the highway), you will need to pay 1 LE or another amount to use the
bathroom facilities. In places like McDonalds and other restaurants, as
well as hotels, and certainly places like Bibliotheca, you don't pay to use
the bathroom and they have toilet paper.
Sightseeing -
I have been to the Pyramids in Giza, Sakkara, to Alexandria, to Sinai (St.
Katherine's and Sharm el-Sheikh) and will be in Luxor this weekend. I don't
have a lot of spare time to organize these better, but I have quite a few
pictures now posted on Flickr of Alexandria and other places in Egypt:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kmf164/ Let me know if you want sightseeing
suggestions or advice.
Questions -
http://wikimania2008.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Aude - I have posted all this
on my Wikimania user page. Please feel free to ask questions. I'm sure I
missed mentioning some things.
-Aude
--
Aude
Since arriving, I have traveled around the country, including Sinai,
Alexandria, and will be in Luxor this weekend. With people arriving soon
for Wikimania, I'd like to take the opportunity to share advice and
experiences as a female.
Language -
English is widely spoken in Egypt, and you will get by just fine if you
don't know any words in Arabic. Though it's good to know a few basics in
Arabic: "shukran" - thank you; "aywa" - yes; "la" - no; "la shukran" - no
thanks; "kwayis" - okay, good; "low samaht" - please, excuse me; "asif" -
sorry (said by a male)/"asifa" (said by female); "hina kwayis" - here is
good (useful in a taxi for saying where to stop); "mish fahim" - I don't
understand; "betikkallim ingleezee" - do you speak English?
Arriving-
I found it unusual when arriving in Cairo, when we had to walk down stairs
(out of a jumbo-size Boeing 767) and onto the tarmac. We road a shuttle bus
from there to the airport terminal. Go ahead and exchange some money in the
airport - best to do before going through customs. Getting through customs
and immigration was quick and easy for me, though I obtained my visa in
advance.
Safety -
* I feel extremely safe here -- safer than I do back in the U.S. Crime is
not much of a problem at all. Also, there is a strong police presence
everywhere. In Sinai and other places, there are checkpoints on the
highways. Most of the time, our tour groups have been completely on our
own, but we had police accompany us a few times.
* There is some harassment on the streets, but it's mainly words. Knowing a
few things in Arabic helps (e.g. "la shukran"). It helps to walk in groups,
but I have walked around my neighborhood and other places on my own without
problems.
* For the most part, Egyptians are very welcoming, especially with tourism
so important to the economy here. I even have some friends here who are
Jewish, who are getting along fine here.
Getting around -
* The biggest difference between the U.S. and Egypt (and elsewhere in the
Middle East) is that traffic lights are pretty much lacking here. In a few
spots, there are traffic lights and/or police controlling traffic. To cross
the street, it's like playing the video game "Frogger", hurrying across the
street when there is a small break in traffic. Also, when riding in a taxi,
the taxi driver may go quite fast and it takes getting use to the manner
that they drive.
What to wear -
* I brought lightweight long/half-sleeve blouses, pants (linen or other
lightweight material), and long skirts. At the last minute, I tossed a
t-shirt in my luggage before I left the US. I'm so very glad that I brought
a t-shirt, and really wish I brought more short sleeve tops. In the area of
Cairo where I live (Zamalek), as well as around the university and many
other areas, it is acceptable to wear short sleeves. Same goes for
Alexandria (Bibliotheca and other areas), which is located along the
waterfront.
* If you are going to see the pyramids in Giza or other such sites, anything
goes for clothing. It's not a problem to for women to wear a tank top/or
t-shirt and shorts. Such attire was also absolute acceptable when I was in
Sharm el-Sheikh (in Sinai) and in similar locations.
* For all places, sandals are completely acceptable for women. You will
even see women covered in hijabs who are wearing sandals.
Shopping -
* In Khan al-Khalili (Cairo) and other markets, the vendors are aggressive
in wanting you to come into their shop and buy. As well, the crowds at the
markets can be overwhelming.
* Bargaining - The prices that vendors tell you are way overpriced and you
need to bargain. For example, they may want 50 LE (khamseen) for a scarf,
but you can get it for 10 LE (ashrun) or not more than 20 LE (ashreen). To
get out of bargaining and move along, you can say "hagee tania" which means
"I'll come back another time". Pretty much all the vendors will know some
English, but a little bit of Arabic can help.
* Khan al-Khalili is located in Islamic Cairo section of the city, which is
more conservative. It's good advice to dress more conservatively when going
shopping. To visit Al-Azhar Mosque, women should also wear a scarf.
Despite having to put up with all this, it is definitely well worth it to
visit Khan al-Khalili or other such places for shopping and souvenirs.
Taking a taxi -
* Prices - Taxi is a cheap and easy way to get around. It's one flat price,
no matter how many people are riding in the taxi. There are no meters.
You set the price, and it should be fair for the driver. If you don't know
what the fare should be for a particular destination, then you should ask
someone (hotel concierge, staff at the dorms, at Bibliotheca, etc.) what's a
reasonable price. 5 LE is a fair price for a ride from Bibliotheca to the
downtown area in Alexandria, since it's not far. I don't remember for sure
exactly how far the dorms are, but I think 5-6 LE is reasonable, since I
don't think the dorms are far. I paid 10-12 LE to get from BA to the other
end of the corniche in Alexandria.
* Getting a taxi - If you are going really far (e.g. downtown Cairo to the
Giza pyramids), then you should agree on a price before getting in a taxi.
For most places (medium and shorter distances), do not discuss price before
getting in. Just say your destination and the driver should agree to take
you. A few times, before or once getting in, the driver has asked me about
price. If that happens, you can say your price. If they don't agree, then
find a different taxi. Really, price should not come up.
* Paying the driver - When you arrive, everyone MUST GET OUT before paying
the driver. Once everyone is out, then the person with the money should
give the driver the money through the window. Then everyone needs to walk
away. Most of the time, the driver doesn't argue with me/us, but sometimes
they will make a fuss and demand more. The thing to do is keep walking
away. You gave them a fair, reasonable amount. As a tourist, maybe you can
give the taxi driver a tiny bit more to avoid an argument.
* You do not need to tip the driver. Just give them the fare.
Eating -
I think most meals are provided at Wikimania, but when you are on your
own...
* Koshari (dish of macaroni, rice, lentils, and sauce) or tamiyya (falafel)
make a good cheap meal. A falafel sandwich can be had for 1-2 LE each, and
koshari meal w/drink for 7-10 LE. Fast food places (e.g. McDonalds,
Hardees, KFC, Pizza Hut) are available most everywhere, though these are not
cheap meals by Egyptian standards. A meal at McDonalds will cost ~30 LE
($5-6 USD) or more. A meal at a good sit-down place (American style cafes,
and other types of places) will cost a bit more, but I think the prices are
comparable or slightly cheaper than in the US.
* I been fine eating the food here, though felt slightly ill after eating
salad in my university cafeteria. It might have been the tomatoes that were
not great. I have avoided salad at other places, though did get salad at
McDonalds which was fine. Some caution about eating raw fruits and
vegetables is a good idea. Cheap tamiyya and koshari have all been fine.
* Alcohol is not difficult to find in Egypt. Stella and Sakara are brands
of beer that are available here. There are plenty of bars and clubs around,
as well a hotel bar is a definite place to find alcohol.
* Restaurants will include a service charge directly on your bill, but you
should also leave a tip.
Bathrooms -
* Western-style toilets are available pretty much most places, though some
places (e.g. Islamic Cairo), you might find a squat-style toilet. When I
arrived at the airport in Cairo, I had some difficulty figuring out how to
flush the toilet. There is a knob on the toilet lid that you pull out and
then push back in when finished with flushing. Some toilets just have a
button to push.
* It's a good idea to carry some toilet paper or tissue with you. Toilet
paper is usually available most places I have been, but not always. In some
places, there is a staff person manning the bathrooms, who will give you
toilet paper for bashish (tip). In some places (e.g. rest houses/stops on
the highway), you will need to pay 1 LE or another amount to use the
bathroom facilities. In places like McDonalds and other restaurants, as
well as hotels, and certainly places like Bibliotheca, you don't pay to use
the bathroom and they have toilet paper.
Sightseeing -
I have been to the Pyramids in Giza, Sakkara, to Alexandria, to Sinai (St.
Katherine's and Sharm el-Sheikh) and will be in Luxor this weekend. I don't
have a lot of spare time to organize these better, but I have quite a few
pictures now posted on Flickr of Alexandria and other places in Egypt:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kmf164/ Let me know if you want sightseeing
suggestions or advice.
Questions -
http://wikimania2008.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Aude - I have posted all this
on my Wikimania user page. Please feel free to ask questions. I'm sure I
missed mentioning some things.
-Aude
--
Aude